Bologna: The Portico Walk

Luckily for our waistlines and our general health, Bologna had an excellent antidote to all that eating: one of the world's longest portico walks, leading from the Porta Saragozza on the edge of the city centre, to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca on  a hill overlooking the town. There are 666 porticoes covering a distance of almost 4km and many steps climbing up to the 300m high summit. While the porticoes are designed to protect pilgrims from the weather, it's actually better to do the walk on a clear day because the views from the top, looking over the city and out to the mountains behind it, are beautiful. The church is also gorgeously decorated and definitely worth a visit, although the famous icon of the Madonna is a little disappointing, being practically swamped by its chunky gold frame. And as a further reward, the walk down is a lot less strenuous than the hike up!

Looking down the steepest bit of the walk.

View from the Sanctuary

You have to continue down the other side a little to get this perfect view of the sanctuary itself.

Mamma Mia!

Because I saw mia mamma at the weekend and it was lovely. She arrived on Friday afternoon and, after a cup of tea and a chat, we did some mother and daughter bonding in Esselunga by discussing the ridiculous price of fruit and vegetables and the merits over mushroom versus meat filled ravioli.

On Saturday, we went to the market, where the stallholders tended to assume that she was the one doing the shopping (because what Italian ragazza would pretend to know more that her mother?) and bought vine tomatoes, cheese and strawberries that all truly lived up to expectation when we ate them for lunch later.

Then we went into town and visited the Duomo. I hadn't been there for about 4 years and climbing up to the roof retained all of its magic. You can walk all over the main roof, getting a vertiginous close up view of the statues surveying the cityscape on their pedestals, and peer down on the piazza below from behind the filigree stonework of the facade. The inside of the cathedral is something of a disappointment afterwards. On a dull day, it's dark and the light is almost greenish, making it hard to believe that the exterior is so light and airy.

By the time we'd visited the cathedral, the rain was truly raining, so after a walk past the designer shops, we headed home. We went out for a meal that night and it was a true Italian experience, with delicious food and small children running around and hitting Mr A. in the back whenever they got bored of waiting for their next course. I'm all for children being taken to restaurants, but surely when they start physically assaulting complete strangers it's time to either tell them off or take them home?

We had planned to go to Lake Como on Sunday but it was raining, so we ended up going to the Triennale design museum instead. This place is incredibly expensive, with entry being 8 euros for each exhibition, so if you wanted to see all of it it would cost you about 32 euros. I also found the labelling of some of the exhibits frustrating because they often just said what the things were made of and who made them without explaining why they were special enough to be in a museum. I enjoyed it much more once I stopped reading the labels and just looked at the exhibits themselves, as there are lots that most people would immediately recognise and some that I even have at home. I've found this often with museums: I tend to read too much and look too little, so maybe it's me that needs to change.

Mum left early on Monday morning and I felt kind of sad as I watched her go. I haven't missed home much since I've been here but seeing her reminded me how new everything here is and how far away some of the things that really matter are. So sorry to all the people that I'm bad at keeping in touch with (having no phone line and rubbish internet doesn't help) and I promise to come and visit soon!